It's Always Sunny In South Korea
  • Seoul
  • October6th

    9 Comments

    A friend posted this on Facebook earlier today and I simply had to post it, terrible though it is.

    In many ways, it exemplifies the things I dislike about Korea. But more importantly, it is a concise, revealing look at the cruel and damaging effects wreaked by uncompromising allegiance to “culture.”

    The video shows an altercation on the subway between a young woman and an ajumma (a middle-aged or older Korean woman who has mythic status in this country). I can’t read Hangul or understand what they’re saying but my guess would be that the ajumma demanded that the younger passenger give up her seat and that the younger woman refused, or something similar to that.

    The clip is brief (just under two minutes long) but I still found it difficult to watch. It’s not gruesome or anything, but it is sad and infuriating.

    For anyone reading this who doesn’t want to see the action, it starts with the two women yelling at each other but quickly becomes violent as the ajumma physically attacks the girl and throws her around the metro car. For those who do want to watch it, here it is.

    Allow me to unpack the multiple facets of corruption layered into this brief video.

    First, the obvious: the physical violence. I don’t care what kind of respect people think should be given to these old, bitter pillars of Korean society. Under no circumstances is it ever OK to scream in someone’s face and physically attack them simply because you’re angry. You don’t get a free pass to abuse people because you had a few kids, a bad perm and have passed middle age. Being old does not equal being allowed to be violent.

    Then we have the respect issue. This is huge in Korea. And I’m not talking about the, “This is a wonderful person who did great things and has earned people’s admiration” kind of respect. I’m talking about the, “I’m older than you so what I say goes”/”I’m bigger than you so you have to do what I say” kind of respect that, from what I’ve observed, is emotionally crippling this society.

    Korean culture accords automatic virtue and respect to anyone who is older than you, particular grandparents and the elderly. It’s common knowledge that when an ajumma tells you to move, you move. If she pushes you off a bus, jabs you with her walking stick, shoves you out of the way on an elevator or barks an order at you, you are supposed to obey. She’s old and deserves respect, after all.

    So the young girl on the subway didn’t even really stand a chance. In as traditional and rigid a culture as this is, it goes without saying that she should bow to whatever the older woman wanted her to do or shut her mouth even if she didn’t like what the ajumma had to say. Judging from the clip, however, that girl had a mind of her own, and paid for it.

    Notice how no one stepped in to help this girl while this lunatic old bat was dragging her around by her hair. You hear someone yelling, perhaps at the ajumma, but no one steps in. Not one person. The best anyone could seem to do was to hand the girl back her phone after she dropped it while being flung about like a rag doll. Everyone either stared or looked away. How utterly pathetic and tragic. It can be terrifying to step in the middle of a fight but come on here. The girl wasn’t even fighting back. She just screamed and screamed while the woman hurt her.

    I do wonder why she didn’t fight back or at least try to pull herself out of the woman’s grip. Was that also because to pull away would have been considered disrespectful? Obviously I’m not advocating hitting an old woman but it strikes me as odd that she wouldn’t have tried harder to break away. Maybe she was afraid of hurting the old lady. I don’t know. But that’s not really the point anyway.

    I could be wrong but my guess is that at least part of the reason no one intervened is because ajummas seem to be granted exemption from behaving like reasonable, compassionate members of society. I’m not saying this applies to all of them and yes, I’m aware that most of them were probably traumatized as children and that makes them the way they are today. But those are not excuses for attacking other people. However, age is everything in Korea. Respect is demanded, not earned. Simply by having been born in a particular decade, people can manipulate, guilt and control those around them all under the guise of respect.

    I also don’t think it’s insignificant that this happened between two women. I don’t know all the details of the situation, but I find it difficult to imagine that this sort of exchange would ever happen between an ajumma and a man. Men are given a good deal more respect than women here and I’m sure that the woman was a much easier target for the old bitch. For one thing, she is less physically intimidating. For another, it’s more acceptable and effective to bully a woman in this way than it is to do it to a man.

    This ajuma knew all of that. Whatever the cause of the argument, she had to have known that she was dealing with one of the most vulnerable passengers on that train, a girl who would get no support whatsoever from anyone watching their argument. She knew that Korean culture grants her a nearly unquestioning respect and authority that allow her to bully and manipulate people as she sees fit (and nevermind what she did to that poor girl. Imagine how she is in her relationship with her husband, and, even more tragically, her children.). I’m not saying that she ran those calculations through her head while she was standing on the train. She didn’t have to. By now, she instinctively knows what she can get away with. And that makes the whole scene even worse.

    That’s what really angers me about this whole scene, I think. But it’s not just about this particular incident. It’s infuriating because the tactics that this old woman used to bully and humiliate this young girl are the same ones employed against people, especially children, every day. People are given a free pass to intimidate, shame and physically harm others into doing what they want, simply because they’re older and “what they say goes,” or “you have to have respect for your elders’ wishes.”

    There’s no such thing as earning respect – there are only irrational rules and demands that are used to break people down, make them feel small, ashamed, crazy and alone. Maybe it seems like a stretch to go from the ajumma on the subway to universal ways people have of dealing with each other, but the connection seems clear to me. It’s just one small example of a problem that plays out again and again every day, based on warped traditions and twisted culture.

    Update: Here’s an explanation of what happened from Andrew, who blogs at http://trekkerdrew.blogspot.com/

    “From my understanding of the translations on the Youtube page, the girl had accidentally smudged the ajumma’s leg with her muddy shoe. The girl is 2nd or 3rd generation and speaks poor Korean (she’s likely a native English speaker) and tried to apologize and bow to the ajumma. However, she did not use the correct honorific in addressing the ajumma, and the ajumma went nuts on the girl, calling her obscenities and such.

    This is equally as bad as “deserving respect” for one’s age, and is in fact part of that same hierarchical system that runs so deep here in Korea.”

  • February24th

    4 Comments

    So I’ve been in Seoul for three full days now, and although some elements of living here are very different from home, there have been quite a few times when I have forgotten that I’m not just in another city in the U.S. There are American food chains everywhere – Outback, Dominos, Burger King, Dunkin’ Donuts, Starbucks and even 7-Eleven. Walking down the main drag near my neighborhood earlier this evening, I really felt like I was in New York or D.C. again when I started noticing the trendy, rail-thin guys with long hair, knit caps and skinny jeans. It’s pretty easy to spot a hipster regardless of which side of the world you’re on. And even though it warms my heart to hear Lady Gaga blasting from various storefronts and know that she’s appreciated globally, I was feeling a little bit disappointed earlier today when I realized I had been hoping for a completely different experience. Although it’s nice to know that there are familiar sites and places around (and they aren’t even entirely the same – the pizzas generally have some kind of funky concoction for a topping and I’ve heard stories about some kind of sugar-topped garlic donut), if I wanted to live in a big U.S. city again, I would have moved back to New York. It probably also has something to do with my work environment. I work with several American and Canadian teachers, almost all of the Korean teachers speak excellent English and the students I’ve been working with speak English during school so I haven’t exactly felt out of my element yet.

    But I reminded myself that I haven’t really been outside of my neighborhood up to this point, and hadn’t even had a chance to explore much of that until I gt off work today. Seocho is one of the more upscale areas of Seoul, and the private school where I’m teaching is fairly expensive and I’m told most of the students come from pretty affluent families. So it’s not really a surprise to see the high-rise apartment buildings and designer clothing stores. And I’ve heard a lot of good things about other parts of the city, where you supposedly really feel like you’re in Asia so I’m planning to do some exploring this weekend.

    I got a little taste of the more unique side of Seoul after school, when a couple of the other teachers and I set off in search of a place to go for dinner. We wandered off the main road down side streets that are just lined with restaurant after restaurant. Some were non-descript holes in the wall while others were elaborately decorated with lanterns, bamboo and white lights. A number of places had enormous fish tanks outside, where you could say hello to your dinner before it was cooked for you. The most bizarre place was a Japanese restaurant that had multiple drawings of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles alongside a life-size caricature of a Japanese warrior. (I took pictures, which I’ll upload if I ever have Internet in my apartment.) It definitely feels more like you’re in South Korea when you get off the highway and wander the side streets, and I’m going to spend more time wandering around this weekend and taking it all in. The only downside to the night was that we couldn’t find a restaurant that had an English menu and was relatively inexpensive, so I ended up eating leftovers at home and I think the others bought microwaveable noodles from a grocery store.

    Aside from that, the language barrier…hasn’t been too much of an issue yet, but I can see it becoming one pretty quickly. For the most part, the other teachers and I have done a lot together the past couple of days, including going grocery shopping and to the nearby hospital to get our medical exams and even if we couldn’t communicate with the nurses or shop owners, at least there was strength in numbers. But even with the English on most street signs, I can see where it might get overwhelming pretty quickly to not be able to speak any Korean at all (which I don’t). So far, I’ve learned the words for “hello,” “goodbye” and “thank you,” which is nice but I really want to start learning the language as soon as possible. Supposedly the characters aren’t difficult to learn, but speaking can be a challenge. So I’ve decided to join a cultural language exchange meetup group. There was a listing in one of the English-language newspapers and it’s a free group, for people from all over to meet and practice their English, Korean or whatever language they’re trying to learn. I figured it would be a good way to meet people and the fastest way to pick up some basic and very necessary Korean. That adventure begins this weekend, and I’m really looking forward to it.

    Other than that, things at the school are going really well. Today was the last day of the Korean school year, so the students have Thursday and Friday off before the new semester begins next Tuesday. I found out that I will have a home room class of about 10 students, and will teach language arts to all of the six-year-old classes. The students will be on a rotating schedule, so they’ll come to me for language arts, and go to the other teachers for math, science, drama and their other subjects. The next two days will be spent decorating my classroom and meeting my students’ parents, which I’m looking forward to. Since it is a private school and the parents pay so much to send their children here, they want frequent updates on what their children are doing in class and on their progress, and are apparently very involved in the whole process. I’m really amazed at how well the kids speak English already, and how easily they transition between English and Korean. Although the student I’ll be working with are in the six-year-old class, most of them will only be five years old, since their Korean age goes up each January. When they’re born, they are considered one, so they are already ahead of say, American children. In my case, I’m 24, but would be considered 25 right now, and 26 on my birthday in April. I think that’s how it works. The point is, a lot of the kids are actually pretty young but are incredibly bright and fast learners. And they’re also just adorable.

    So that’s where I am right now, still really enjoying Seoul and excited to see the rest of it and push myself out of my comfort zone and fully into this experience.

  • February22nd

    3 Comments

    Seoul fierce

    Posted in: Seoul

    I made it! After two very long days of travel, I finally arrived in Seoul late last night. Although I haven’t had a chance to explore too much of the city yet, I have to say that from what I’ve seen, I think I’m going to like it here.

    My journey began at 9:22 Saturday morning, and everything went pretty smoothly. I had never flown Delta before but the service was great and I spent a lot of the trip reading and doing some self-reflection, so I felt really clear-headed and relaxed by the time I got here. My apartment is  in the southern part of Seoul. The accomodations are small but everything about the place suits me perfectly. As soon as I walked in, it just felt like the apartment was mine – probably had something to do with the red decor and the zebra print chair on the back patio. Or it’s just because I’ve never had my own place before and I am beside myself with excitement in my own apartment in a quirky area in a foreign city. The section where I live is off a busy highway, but has an eccentric, fun vibe as soon as you turn off the main road. Walk-up apartment buildings are clustered with restaurants, shops, PC bangs (Internet cafes)and even the occasional Western oasis. From what I’ve sampled so far, Korean food is pretty tasty but I was also relieved to find Skippy peanut butter in the grocery store and a Dunkin’ Donuts on the corner.

    Today was the first day of orientation at work, and I found out that I will be teaching language arts classes to six-year-old students. I spent most of the day shadowing one of the current teachers and helping out wherever I could. The students were fantastic – bright, friendly and a lot of fun. Most of them will move up a grade at the end of this week because the new Korean school year begins next Tuesday, which means I’ll officially start work with a brand-new class. I’ve never really taught young children like this before, and maybe this is premature to say, but I’m feeling really good about working here. Actually, I’m feeling great about every aspect of being here in Seoul.

    For the moment, I have to use the 24-hour services of a nearby PC bang to use the Internet, but once I have it set up in my apartment, I’ll be posting pictures and writing more regularly about the city, the people, the culture and probably a lot of other things as well. So stay tuned!

  • February20th

    2 Comments

    Well, Seoul late Sunday, after a minimum of 38 hours of traveling. I felt it only appropriate to start blogging while I’m still stateside, preparing for what I am sure is the craziest, most exciting and challenging thing I have ever done. Up until two weeks ago, I was working my way up the journalism ladder as an editorial assistant at a newspaper in Washington, D.C. Now, I’ve packed all of my worldly possessions into four bags (a minor miracle for me) and am preparing to move to the other side of the world, almost entirely on my own. And I cannot wait.

    That’s not to say that there aren’t people I’ll miss here, because of course I will. But more than anything, I am absolutely thrilled to be starting this new adventure in my life. Because this move isn’t just about a new job or a new place to live or a new city to explore. This is about celebrating and embracing a new me, living my life joyfully, honestly and completely out loud.

    The adventure begins tomorrow – well, I guess technically it’s today since it’s almost 1 a.m. I’ll fly out of Newark International Airport, making stops in Detroit and Tokyo before finally landing in South Korea late Sunday night. I’m not sure how much writing time or Internet access I’ll have during the next couple of days or even when I first arrive, so I may not actually be able to go all out on the blogging until I’m settled into my apartment and whatnot. But I still felt this moment should be documented. I’ve also never been great about maintaining different blogs I’ve started in the past so I’m pretty inexperienced with this. I’m excited about it, though, and it will grow and improve as I do. And eventually, the pictures on this page won’t be random images chosen by the very talented individual who designed this template, they’ll be my attempt at photo documentation of my journey.

    So…to be completely cornball (and hopefully I’ll grow out of that as well)…here’s to a beautiful and promising new beginning!